The Real General Tso And How He Became The Namesake For Takeout Chicken

General Tso's chicken is a popular dish in Chinese-American cuisine, but its connection to the actual historical figure, General Tso Tsung-t'ang, is tenuous at best. Tso Tsung-t'ang was a 19th-century Chinese military leader from the Hunan Province, known for his successful campaigns during the Qing Dynasty. He played a significant role in quelling the Taiping Rebellion and was recognized for his strategic prowess and loyalty to the Chinese empire. The dish named after him, however, does not have roots in his life or era. Instead, it was created in the 20th century, likely by Chinese chefs in Taiwan who were inspired by Hunanese flavors. Chef Peng Chang-kuei is often credited with popularizing the dish in the United States during the 1970s. He introduced it in his restaurant in New York City, where it gained popularity among American diners. The dish, characterized by its sweet and spicy sauce, crispy fried chicken, and subtle hints of ginger and garlic, became a staple in Chinese takeout menus across the country. While General Tso himself may never have tasted this dish, his name has become synonymous with a beloved and enduring culinary creation.
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The history of General Tso's chicken

General Tso's chicken was created by a Hunanese chef named Peng Chang-kuei. After World War II, Peng landed a position managing banquets for the Chinese government, but this came to an end when Mao Zedong's Communist Party took power in 1949. Peng then fled to Taiwan with members of the deposed government. Once in Taipei, he continued to prepare meals for government events and is said to have invented General Tso's Chicken for a state dinner with Admiral Arthur Radford, the chairman of the U.S. Joint Chiefs of Staff, in 1955.

Peng's original recipe was quite different from the General Tso's chicken commonly found in American takeout restaurants today. It was neither sweet nor deep-fried. So, what led to the change? In the early 1970s, another chef named Tsung Ting Wang, who worked at the Shun Lee Palace restaurant in New York, visited Taiwan and dined at Peng's establishment. Inspired by the General Tso's chicken he tasted there, Wang returned to the U.S. and recreated the dish, making it sweeter and deep-fried to cater to American preferences. Shortly after, Peng moved to New York and opened his own restaurant, but he discovered that Americans preferred his original, more savory version far less.

Who was General Tso?

General Tso's Chicken is named after Zuo Zongtang (also referred to as Tso Tsung-t'ang), who was born in Hunan province in 1812 and gained prominence as a general for the Qing Dynasty during the Taiping Rebellion. This rebellion was an insurrection against the Qing Emperor led by a religious group known as the Bai Shangdi Hui, or God Worshippers' Society, whose leader claimed to be the younger brother of Jesus Christ. The rebels capitalized on widespread discontent among the peasant class, resulting in a conflict that lasted from 1850 to 1864. With an estimated 20 million deaths, the Taiping Rebellion stands as the deadliest civil war in history.

Zuo Zongtang gained notoriety during this violent struggle, leading several campaigns against the insurgents. He rapidly ascended the military ranks, and by the war's conclusion, he was appointed governor-general of the provinces of Zhejiang and Fujian, making him one of the most influential figures in China, second only to the emperor. Following the conflict, Zuo was assigned as governor of Shaanxi and Gansu to quell uprisings by Uyghur Muslims in those regions. One of his lasting contributions to China was securing the vast western territory now known as Xinjiang, which today represents one-sixth of China's total land area. However, his military achievements have largely been eclipsed by the chicken dish that carries his name, a choice made by the dish's creator, Peng, who hailed from the same town in Hunan as General Zuo.

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