master-cooks | This Rare Potato Variety Is More Expensive Than Wagyu Beef

In the world of gourmet foods, there's a rare potato variety that commands a price tag surpassing even that of Wagyu beef, renowned for its luxury and exclusivity. Known as La Bonnotte, this potato is cultivated on the small Île de Noirmoutier, off the west coast of France. Its cultivation is highly labor-intensive, as each potato must be hand-harvested to preserve its delicate nature. The island's unique microclimate and sandy, mineral-rich soil imbue La Bonnotte with its distinctive flavor profile, characterized by a subtle saltiness and a hint of lemony zest. This exceptional taste is further enhanced by the use of seaweed as a natural fertilizer, contributing to its unparalleled quality. La Bonnotte is available for only a limited period each year, typically from late April to early May, adding to its exclusivity. The scarcity and meticulous production process result in a high market value, fetching prices upwards of $300 per kilogram. This potato is celebrated among culinary connoisseurs and is often featured in high-end restaurants, where chefs craft exquisite dishes that highlight its unique characteristics. La Bonnotte stands as a testament to the art of agriculture, where tradition, environment, and craftsmanship combine to create a truly remarkable and luxurious ingredient.

Why are Bonnottes so expensive?

Bonnottes thrive in the sandy soil of Noirmoutier, which contributes to their unique appeal — this soil imparts an ocean-like flavor to the potatoes, enhanced by the use of seaweed as fertilizer. Their distinctive taste makes them popular, and while this is a factor in their high price, it is not the sole reason.

These potatoes, particularly their skins, are more fragile than other varieties and must be harvested by hand, significantly raising labor costs. In contrast, most potatoes are collected in much larger quantities using machinery that accelerates the process. Interest in Bonnottes waned in the 1960s due to the challenges of their delicate harvesting, but from the 1990s onward, Noirmoutier farmers revived their cultivation and found a market for them. Additionally, Bonnottes are cultivated on only a small section of the island, which restricts their availability — each plant produces an average of just 7 ounces of potatoes.

Furthermore, Bonnottes are only harvested for about one week to ten days each year, typically in mid-May. This creates a narrow selling window, lasting from the harvest until early June. When you combine all these elements, you end up with a truly rare and costly potato.

How are Bonnottes eaten?

If you spent over $100 on a potato, you would understandably find it challenging to decide how to use it. On one hand, it might feel extravagant to transform such a pricey item into fries or mashed potatoes, but on the other hand, you can't simply bite into a raw potato like you would an apple, due to the presence of lectins, a protein that can lead to digestive issues.

The primary guideline for cooking with Bonnottes is to leave the skin on: it’s full of flavor and absorbs the briny taste of seawater and seaweed. Traditionally, the people of Noirmoutier enjoy these potatoes steamed or fried, often served alongside grilled sardines. Bonnottes can be incorporated into a variety of dishes, from soups to desserts, where their creamy texture is perfect for making a classic French cake (here are 20 you should try at least once). However, the general advice is to keep it simple and allow the potatoes to take center stage without too many additional ingredients.

You might consider boiling, steaming, roasting, or frying them—perhaps with a drizzle of olive oil and butter, a sprinkle of herbs, and a touch of fleur de sel to finish. They pair beautifully with seafood or shellfish, as well as with salt-crusted meats.

This Rare Potato Variety Is More Expensive Than Wagyu Beef

Why are Bonnottes so expensive?

How are Bonnottes eaten?

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