The Oldest Known Beer Recipe Was Also An Ancient Hymn

How Sumerian beer involved brewing with bread

Upon reading the Sumerians' hymn dedicated to Ninkasi, it quickly becomes evident how deeply they revered her. The initial three verses outline Ninkasi's lineage, highlighting the affection and care bestowed upon her by prominent deities of the Sumerian pantheon, Ninhursag and Enki. The hymn then transitions into several verses celebrating Ninkasi's expertise in brewing beer, starting with the incorporation of "bappir"—a special type of bread crafted specifically for beer production—into the brewing vessels.

Bappir was created using water, barley flour, local spices, and honey. The end product was hard and dry, potentially serving as emergency provisions. To prepare for brewing, the poem indicates that bappir was combined with honey or dates, essential malted barley for brewing, and water, which was then allowed to ferment in vats:

"Ninkasi, you are the one who manages the dough [and] with a large shovel,

Mixing in a pit, the bappir with [date] — honey,

You are the one who bakes the bappir in the large oven,

Arranging the piles of hulled grains."

As illustrated, the hymn serves a dual purpose of reverence and guidance. Memorizing the poem not only honored Ninkasi and her divine brew but also provided instructions on how to blend the crumbled bappir with honey and measure the grains used to enhance the beer's flavor. Although specific quantities are not mentioned, the hymn likely functioned as an effective mnemonic tool, taught alongside detailed instructions passed down from seasoned brewers to newcomers.

Brewing beer as a Sumerian community tradition

While Ninkasi was the central figure taking action in the poem, the verses clearly detailed the essential ingredients and equipment, along with straightforward instructions for brewing beer. The tasks Ninkasi performed in the hymn did not require divine powers, which may explain why historians view it as both a recipe and a tribute to this beloved goddess. The poem's lyrical language also conveyed a sense of ease and comfort, depicting each step as a sensory delight:

"Ninkasi, the filtering vat, which produces a pleasant sound,

You place it properly on a large collector vat.

When you pour out the filtered beer from the collector vat,

It flows like the rushing waters of the Tigris and Euphrates."

These lines suggest that the Sumerians regarded beer-making as a genuine labor of love, filled with delightful aromas and sounds that contributed to their vitality, health, and survival. Archaeological evidence indicates that beer was brewed and enjoyed in a communal setting, with depictions of Sumerians using reed straws to drink from large ceramic vessels. In terms of flavor, the recipe captured in this hymn yielded tastes quite distinct from modern beers. According to the Anchor Brewing Company, which recreated the recipe in 1989, the resulting flavor was light, sweet, and acidic—reminiscent of champagne—with fruity notes from the dates used in the brewing process.